The Beauty of Braising
To braise a pieces of meat is to transform what was once inedible into something warm, tender, juicy…each bite fills you with comfort and joy! The art of braising meat has been used around the world by all culinary cultures to turn some of the toughest cuts of meat into the most delicious meals. Whether you’re using the braised meat for filling pasta, dumplings, to spoon over polenta or rice, or to eat in a stew, this magical transformation will satisfy and elate those who indulge in the rich and saucy dish you create.
Braising is the method of cooking in which one cooks a piece of meat in liquid at a low temperature for a long period of time. Braising is not boiling, it’s not steaming, and it’s not simmering (per se). Braising is its own wet-cooking method that uses heat surrounding the dish in which the meat and sauce is held in on all sides (whether in the oven or buried in coals) and allows the flavors of the broth and the meat and bone to combine over time to create the most wonderful broth and meat. The meat and broth can then be used for any number of dishes, but no matter what type of dish results the flavor and richness of braised meat is truly special.
Cuts that are best for braising are often less tender than those used for dry-heat cooking methods such as searing in a pan or on the grill. If one were to throw a beef shank onto the grill as they do with a steak, the result would be a piece of meat that is nearly inedible because of the force needed to cut and chew through the muscle and sinew. However, thanks to the addition of liquid, and slow cooking at low heat, the muscles and sinew break down to create a tender and flavorful piece of meat. These less tender cuts include shanks, belly and short ribs, brisket, shoulder and round cuts from the legs, and other cuts from the flank of the carcass. Many cultures have different highly regarded dishes that utilize braising such as birria, ragu, and seco de chivo. Any carcass whether it’s chicken, beef, lamb, or goat yields several cuts that can become something truly special when braised.
Not only does braising help to make the meat more tender and juicy, but the flavors you can impart into the dish are also what makes braising so beautiful. Introducing different stock and bouillon, spices, herbs, and vegetables allows the chef to create a rich broth that can then be re-introduced to the meat once shredded or pulled or reduced into a delicious sauce to plate with your main dish. The amount of flavor that a braised dish can offer is truly unmatched in the culinary arts. Much of that flavor, in addition to the ingredients that are secondary to the meat, comes from the connective tissue in the cut of meat, along with the bones and marrow. When a piece of meat is braised in liquid slowly on low heat the muscle fiber casings, and tendons and sinew break down into a wonderful gelatinous texture to complement the lean meat that would otherwise be somewhat dry. When shredding the meat, you are integrating that flavor and moist texture back into the lean muscle creating that “melt in your mouth” feel that is so special to braising.
Since braising is inherently a long process, and it usually done in an oven over many hours, it’s best suited in the fall, winter, and early spring seasons when a warm kitchen and home is most desired. The aromas remind one of crisp autumn days, or chilly winter nights, and eating the warm stews and dishes that are made with braised meat warms the body and soul. Now that fall is coming upon us, it’s time to get out the braising pot, pull out some shanks or ribs from the deep freezer, and create a braised dish that is sure to make you think “why don’t I braise more often”?? And the answer should be, “I don’t know, but I’m going to start”!
Braised Beef Shanks
One of my favorite braised recipes is beef shank, so here it is:
· Use heavy dutch oven pot, or similar heavy pot with heavy lid
· 4 pieces of beef shank, cross cut
· 2 bay leaf
· 1 quart of beef stock, or other flavorful liquid
· 1 large dark beer
· 1 spanish onion
· 4 carrots
· 4 celery stalks
· Herbs to your liking (oregano, thyme, rosemary, marjoram)
· Whole black pepper corn
· Cloves (pinch)
· Star Anise (small piece)
· 2 Tablespoons of cooking oil
· Kosher Salt to taste
Thaw out 4 pieces of cross-cut beef shank from your freezer overnight.
Pre-heat your oven to 250 F then, put your braising pot (any heavy, large, oven ready pot with a lid) onto high heat with some cooking oil. When the oil is close to the smoking point, salt your beef heavily with sea salt and sear on high heat until a dark brown crust forms on each side of the shank.
Remove the shanks from the pot and turn down the heat to medium. Place your veggies into the pot and sweat until they’re softened slightly. Add your seasonings and herbs now.
After about 5 minutes of stirring the veggies and seasonings place your beef back into the pot. Fill the pot with your cooking liquid until the beef is almost covered, but not fully submerged. 2/3-3/4 covered is good. Place the lid onto the pot and place into your pre-heated oven.
Allow the pot to stay in the oven for at least 5 hours, but even longer is better. If you check your pot and the liquid has reduced too much, splash a little more into the pot. If you have a heavy pot and lid, and you’ve put the right amount of liquid in to start, you should not have to add more.
When the braise is finished, your meat will peel apart with a fork and a gentle touch. Remove the meat and bone from the pot and place into a large bowl. Strain your liquid into that same bowl, or a different bowl if you’re plating separately. Mix the meat around to shred it or serve in larger pieces. If you didn’t incorporate the broth back into the meat, reduce the broth and serve over the meat as a jus, or a reduction to your liking. Serve with pasta, dumplings, potatoes, polenta, rice, or any other starch of your choosing. Veggies that go well with this include kale, spinach, or brussels sprouts.